We took only necessities, tent, jackets and rented scooter for three days to explore this part of Gujarat from Bhuj to Pakistan border which was around 100 km away. We wanted to see Rann of Kutch desert, High Magnetic Field and most important — salt pans. But as soon as we arrived to the White Desert point we were turned down from entering by armed guards. This is what happens quite often in India; during an important delegation ordinary people are dismissed and not communicated to beforehand. They don’t care from how far have people travelled from the request will still be dismissed. Why would government of India done it? Because they can.

Due to my stubborn nature I don’t take “No” for an answer and similarly to Agra in search for adventure we decided to take a detour several kilometres from the gates. We drove a few kilometres across the slippery, clay-filled damp desert until the wheels ceased to spin in the muddy ground and a salt crust appeared. We left the bike and walked along the salt, crunching under our feet like a snow. For several months, salt concentrates on the surface in a form of crust, covering a thick, brown, mousse-like mud, just like Crème brûlée. We fumbled further and further until the salt under the our feet became as hard as concrete, in which we could see the dead grasshoppers.

On the way back our scooter has completely stuck in the ground so we had to push it until we found a bunch of boys with water and buckets. They have prevented us cleaning it, sat us down and offered tea. For me Indian people are divided in two categories, those are constantly trying to fuck you up you and those are benevolent. Second kind is almost always appear at the background of an unfortunate incident as if saints who will give all the means to reach the hand of help, improving faith in humanity.